Ashleigh Barrowman
Ashleigh Barrowman
Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand
Ashleigh Barrowman cut her teeth with some of our very favourite producers around the world before settling back down in her native New Zealand, having fallen in love with the Wrekin Vineyard, a biodynamically farmed oasis in the upper reaches of the Southern Valleys sub-region of Marlborough.
Ash’s path to becoming a vigneron came via a route less travelled. She was working in online advertising and ended up getting a gig re-designing the website of Hans Herzog, an organic viticulture pioneer in NZ. Fascinated by this rabbit hole she has stumbled upon, she allowed herself to tumble down, eventuating in Ash becoming the sales manager for the estate before getting involved in both the vineyard and cellar.
From there she decided to go back to school and study viticulture and winemaking and build her life around wine. Around the same time, she started importing and distributing some of Europe’s most prestigious natural wines with her then-partner. This opened the door for Ash to travel to Europe and work with a raft of world-class producers.
The legendary vignerons she has worked for in Europe include the sadly retired J.J Morel in Burgundy, Vino di Anna in Sicily and probably most informatively for the wines she produces now, Domaine Labet and Les Bottes Rouge in Jura.
Ash was loving her life as a flying winemaker and didn’t think her time was quite done but the pandemic had other ideas and she was forced to return to New Zealand in 2020. With every intention to pick up her globe-trotting tour of the world's finest producers once possible, she sought domestic vineyard work and found herself at the Wrekin Vineyard in Marlborough. It didn’t take long for her to fall in love with it and for her plans to leave steadily evaporated.
The Wrekin Vineyard is one of the highest-altitude plantings in Marlborough, with the climate there characterised by long sunny days and cool nights, perfect for long ripening and development of flavour whilst retaining bracing acidity. The proximity to the ocean (visible on clear days from the vineyard) helps moderate the climate and protects it from extremes in both the height of summer and the depths of winter.
The soils are mainly clay, with some gravel and loam, providing excellent drainage while retaining moisture essential for vine health through selected cover crops. Planted by the Johns family in 2002 as part of their larger polyculture property (1000ha overall with Angus beef, Merino wool, olives and forestry blocks), it has been managed organically since 2012 and biodynamically since 2018 and is family-owned and operated. The vineyard is planted to Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir (no Sauvignon Blanc in sight!), all of which Ash gets a cut of for her wines.
Ash works full-time year-round in the vineyard and cellar, judiciously and gently guiding the vines and wines through whatever the vintage conditions may bring. In the cellar, she takes a very low-intervention approach without being dogmatic. All wines are hand-picked, wild fermented, never fined or filtered, with just a tickle of sulphur at bottling (30ppm max).
The wines show an incredible depth of concentration without sacrificing freshness on the palate. They balance the knife’s edge between generous and complex but invigorating and lively gorgeously.
An extremely exciting young producer, who has achieved an awful lot in only a few years, and one we are extremely proud to represent in Australia.
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A super exciting young producer making electric and complex Juraesque wines having cut her teeth with some of the best in the business.
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Country: New Zealand
Region: Marlborough (Southern Valleys)
Town: Fairhill -
Soil Types: Clay, gravel, loam
Size: Wrekin Vineyard = 14ha total
Farming: Biodynamic (Certified Organic)
Varietals: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (no Savvy B!)
Current Releases
Queen of Cups
Chenin Blanc, 2023
Whole bunch pressed into used cigar barrels and puncheons.
15 months on gross lees with regular battonage to build texture. The cigar barrel shape increases lees contact as is often used in the Loire to build texture into whites.
A super-fine and racy Chenin that has just enough texture to increase its persistence without sacrificing perkiness with a salinity that clearly demonstrates the Wrekin’s proximity to the ocean.
Queen of Swords
Chardonnay, 2022
Direct pressed into used barriques where it remained on its lees for 18 months.
Full Malo.
A candidate for the global “I can’t believe it’s not Jura” award. Super electric and dense Chardonnay that zings with energy.
The concentration and depth to go with the purity and verve is outstanding. Ash lets the juice get exposed to oxygen straight away in the press and the depth and extra savoury edge it gives the wine is fabulous. The fruit easily has the salinity, acidity and minerality to handle the extra oomph in flavour and remain electric.
A wine that wonderfully demonstrates the potential of the Wrekin vineyard, Ash’s skill and intuition as well as her time spent at Labet.
The Empress
Pinot Noir, 2023
A new wine for this year.
Hand-picked and hand-destemmed.
Stainless ferment.
Pressed mid-ferment to retain freshness.
Aged in stainless for 6 months in Puncheons.
Not your everyday chilled red this. Fresh and vibrant and lively as you would expect but with a very definite complex savoury undercurrent with beautifully soft powdery tannins and super long length.
High Priestess
Pinot Noir, 2022
Hand-picked and hand-destemmed.
Daily juice syphoning to keep the cap wet without increasing extraction. Basically as little as Ash can get away with to keep the cap healthy. They practice robust green harvesting at the vineyard (60% of fruit dropped) so the density and concentration of fruit is there without having to heavily extract.
18 months in used puncheons.
Very much an ode to the time she spent in Jura. A light on its feet pinot that highlights the quality of the fruit but not without its serious savoury chops and slightly more Burgundian (Pommard for me) tannin structure.